Chapter 2: Betong
Subsequent to the Baling Talks (held in 1955), MCP continued their anti-colonial struggle in the jungle. As Malaysia and Singapore gained their independence in 1957 and 1965 respectively, their operations were limited within the Thai-Malaysian border. When the communist block in Europe collapsed in mid-1980s, the MCP accepted that they no longer stand any chance to form a communist government in Malaysia. After a series of negotiations between Malaysia, the MCP and Thailand (as the mediator), the MCP finally agreed to sign a peace (not surrender) agreement in 1989. While the MCP comrades were given permission to return to their homes (in Malaysia), some choose to stay behind and settled in peace villages on the Thai side of the border.

Having completed the immigration necessities at the mountainous border post, we formally began the 2nd phase of the Great Drive. Betong, like all other towns along the Thai-Malaysian border, it is a popular destination as a cheap alternative for Malaysians who simply wanted to be "overseas". While I will elaborate more about town's highlights later, the main objective was to visit the peace villages which the remaining members of the MCP are currently residing.

After a so-so lunch of dumpling noodles (in an eatery filled with tourists) in Betong, we headed to the Peace Village (a.k.a. Hepin Chun in Chinese) which was about 20kms east of Betong along the Betong-Yala trunk road (Route 4062). As we were not sure on the directions initially, we visited the liaison centre (opposite of Wat Phutthathiwat in Betong) and got the help we needed.

Surrounded by little hills in a nice village setting, Peace Village was completely different from the crowded Betong town. Having checked-in into our rooms (RM60/S$26 per night) at the (rather grandly named) Betong Peace Village Cultural Resort, an old comrade (from Perak) brought us for a little tour to the museum (denoting history of MCP and their life in the jungle), the extremely old tree (where people would request for lottery numbers) and the red-star monument (commemorating the comrades' struggle against colonialism). While the dinner (Rm150 or S$65.22 for 8 people) in the village restaurant (it was the only place to eat anyway) was ok, the locally grown vegetables (3 out of 6 dishes) deserved special mentioning as it was extremely fresh.

There was not alot of things to do in the hills at night. While the rest of the gang were playing with firecrackers after watching the documentary about the MCP, I had a chat with a lady comrade (in her 60s) who joined the cause when she was 18 to find out more about this forgotten group. After accepting the communist ideology, she gave up everything (including her family) and went underground in 1969 (one of the last few batches of recruits). Assigned to a logistics platoon, she was responsible to ferry information, food and equipment to cells still active in Malaysia. After the peace agreement, although they were given a choice to return home, she and her husband decided to stay and obtained a Thai passport instead. Perhaps after spending their prime years in the jungle, going back to an urban lifestyle back in Malaysia might sound a little bit daunting.

I wondered if the comrades had ever thought of how different their lives would be if they did not join the struggle. Do they look at themselves as a sacrifice to the nation? How would they feel when it seems that their peers (who in the first place did not join in the cause) are enjoying the "fruits" (i.e. Malaysia's independence) of their revolution? As I was falling asleep in my room accompanied by the mating croaks made by toads and crickets, these questions (which I did not have the courage to ask) were floating in my mind. Perhaps these questions simply do not have any answers.