It was one of those days when I woke up not knowing where I was. Perhaps the ride from Nong Khiaw to Sam Neua was too long and I was still feeling sleepy. When I got out from the sheets, I got another rude shock; it was still damn cold and the warmth did not arrive with the sunrise. At such a high altitude of 1,200m, Sam Neua is predominantly cold and hazy for almost the entire year. I was certainly ill-prepared for the cold and had no warm clothing with me.

After being on the road for 11 hours, we got into Sam Neua at almost midnight. As the city was pretty much in sleepy mode (there was no one in the bus station), we had to wait for a songthaew to pick us up. Bargained with the yawning driver and he agreed to charge 30,000kip (S$5) for 4 people on the 2km ride into Sam Neua (the bus station is again situated relatively far away from the city). Apart from the noise generated by the songthaew, nothing seems to be "alive" at this time of the night (except for the 24-hr ATM). Had to wake up the caretaker of Phoothong Guesthouse for a room (60,000kip/S$10 a night); it was so cold that I would had given up anything for a hot shower.

Sam Neua (or literally "northern swamp"), the capital of the Hua Phan province, is one of the least visited provincial capitals in Laos. Situated in a valley surrounded by the numerous mountain ranges in the northeast, the city is so isolated that the next nearest provincial capital (i.e. Phonsavan) is at least 8 hours away by car. In a way, it is due to this remoteness that I travelled to this part of the country to visit the Pathet Lao caves in Vieng Xai. I should explain more about this later.

Took a quick walk to the local tourism office and was surprised by the good service provided by the staff. As there were 2 official tours daily (8am & 1pm) to the caves (tours at other timings could be arranged but need to pay extra), I decided to head straight to Vieng Xai for the 1pm tour. Although a songthaew ride from Sam Neua to Vieng Xai cost only 10,000kip (or S$1.67 per person, 28kms, 1hr), I will need to charter a vehicle to get to Nathong Bus Station (where songthaews to Vieng Xai will leave) for 25,000kip/S$4.17 (which did not make much economical sense to me)!. It did not help when I did not have much kip left. In the end, I decided to "march" 4kms to the bus station with my backpack. It was crazy; but I made it (in 30mins) just in time for the 11.30am songthaew. Phew...