Got back to Varanasi via Auto (Rs100 or S$3.70) in the evening. While the journey was not as eventful as the previous, it was certainly interesting to observe the surroundings around me. Behind the glowing evening sun, farmers ploughing their land with their trusted beasts. Amidst all the noise from the endless horning, impatient Auto drivers trying to get out of a jam at a junction (sometimes I wonder how do people get out a jam when no one is willing to give way). To me, there is no other way to embrace India. This is really India at its best.

For the previous pages of this blog, I have been describing the nominal daily activities (i.e. bathing, washing) where pilgrims perform along the Ganges. It is probably high time to talk about something more serious. Ganges River is also well known as a sacred cremation site. Ancient Indian Mythology states that Ganga (i.e. Ganges), daughter of Himavan (King of the Mountains), had the power to purify anything that touched her. Ganga then flowed from the heavens and purified the people of India. Therefore, many Hindus choose to have their funeral held in Varanasi as they believe if the bodies are cremated along or immersed into the holy river, it will purify them of their sins.

There are 2 main burning ghats in Varanasi (Manikarnika and Harishchandra). Minus the self-appointed guides that attempt to do an impromptu explanation (for a donation of course), it is interesting to observe the entire process. When I was at Manikarnika Ghat, I saw a body that was wrapped with yellow cloth. Workers (of the lower caste) can be seen plying wood on the riverbanks in preparation of the final act. Relatives (only male members of the family can participate in the cremation), looking forlorn, stand at the side of the body. But surprisingly, no one cries (unlike those dramatic Chinese funerals where the louder the wails, the more "loved" the dead was). I feel that this is due to the concept of reincarnation in Hinduism where it literally means "to be made flesh again". Perhaps to them, death is just the necessary initiation to the next life.