Home -> Travel Blogs -> Cairo/Luxor 10 Dec 09 - 14 Dec 09 Pg 6
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After the end of the Old Kingdom, the concept of the afterlife became increasingly accessible to nobles that does not belong to the royal family. Rather than building grand mega structures like the pyramids (real estate was really a problem on the narrow stretches of fertile land along the Nile Valley), the ancient tomb builders began to dig tunnels into the cliffs that border the valley. While the earlier tombs consist of just a simple chamber, the later designs come complete with complicated tunnels linking multiple rooms while leading to the final burial chamber. Once the structure of the tomb is completed, the finer works will begin. Stone carvers will delicately portray the depiction (on the wall) of the entire proceeding of how the pharaoh would enter (i.e. the process of mummification) and exist in the afterlife. The various chambers will then be littered with artefacts which the pharaoh will use "forever"; its all about making sure that he has everything at his disposal (like what he had when he was alive) in the afterlife.

Located on the west bank of the Nile opposite to Thebes (modern Luxor), Valley of the Kings is an area where tombs were constructed for the powerful Pharaohs and the nobles of the New Kingdom (18th-20th dynasties of ancient Egypt). In fact, most tombs were built on the west bank as it is the traditional place of burial where the sun was seen to sink into the underworld every evening. Dominated by the peak of al-Qurn (known in the ancient times as Ta Dehent, or "The Peak"), the isolated position in the desert means the ancient tomb police were able to guard the area easily.

Starting the day early at 7am (after the standard hotel breakfast), we headed to the pier where one could cross the Nile via a 10min ride on the baladi (municipal) ferry for only EŁ1/S$0.25. When we arrived at Al-Gezira (the corresponding pier on the West Bank), we decided to take a taxi (E£10/S$2.50) to the Valley of the Kings after rounds of persistent hard selling (he followed us all the way from the East Bank!) from the taxi driver (whom he calls himself as "Mohammed Ali"). After some "serious" negotiations with the guard (cameras were not allowed but we brought it in anyway), we entered the grounds (E£84/S$21 for 3 tombs per person including tram ride) proper.

As the guidebook actually recommends 3 tombs (KV34, KV35 & KV57) to visit but it was a shame neither of them were opened while we were there. In the end, we visited the tombs of Ramses IX (KV6), Ramses III (KV11) and Tuthmosis IV (KV43). While the first 2 tombs were filled with tourists, the last tomb (KV43) we visited happens to the furthest, largest and the deepest tomb discovered so far in the Valley of the Kings (we almost had the tomb to ourselves). The owner of this tomb, Tuthmosis IV happens to be the grandfather of Tutankhamun, whose tomb (KV62, E£100/S$25 per entry) was considered as the most famous tomb and all the fabulous treasurers it contained (we gave this a miss anyway because the treasures were all kept in the Egyptian Museum).

I was caught by a plain-cloth tourist police (his rifle was hidden under his coat) while Sally was taking a photograph of me (no points for guessing what position I was in) on our way to KV43. He was rather pleasant after I showed him the photograph while apologising profusely. Guess he was just doing his job though he must had told the guard about this and we were watched like a hawk while we were in KV43. We laughed it off in a "joke" (or maybe it was real?) when they offered to exchange Sally with 5 camels; perhaps that was the Egyptian form of sexual harassment?

   
Taking a baladi (municipal) ferry ride across the Nile, Sally was all ready to start the day off exploring the west bank of Luxor.

p.s.: Perhaps the man sitting on the second row does not mind having his photograph taken as well?

When will my next passenger appear?

- impressions of Al-Gezira, Luxor, Egypt

A case of "trying" too much?

Note: Mohammed Ali (our taxi driver not the boxer) showed us a small booklet that contained the reviews on his service written by other tourists. We found this written on one of the pages.
Sally posing for a quick photograph at the entrance before we entered into the Valley of the Kings. The guard at the entrance refused to let us enter as cameras were not allowed but we argued that there were no lockers where we could keep our cameras prior to the entrance (there was no way we could leave our cameras with the taxi drivers). We got in after consulting the senior policeman who was seated near to the sanning machine.

There was a camera deposit kiosk after we paid for our tickets but we left the cameras in our bags anyway.

wyattwang.com doing it at the Valley of the Kings (with al-Qurn in the background), Luxor, Egypt.

Note: The plain cloth policeman actually saw us taking this photograph at the entrance of KV43.
The shopping "street" of Valley of the Kings (the exit links directly to this). I was intrigued by the shadows that was formed on the floor (by the roof).
The view of Ramesseum (Ramses II very own memorial temple) as taken from the entrance. We could not enter the grounds as we did not have a valid ticket (i.e. the ticket had to be purchased at the main ticket counter rather at the entrance). :(
I thought this was a rather nice photograph taken of the Colossi of Memnon; the first monument travellers will see as they explore the west bank of Luxor.
Sally was trying to keep her hat on her head as we were travelling back to Al-Gezira from Ramesseum via a passenger track (EŁ10/S$2.50).

Sally posing for a touristy shot across the Nile (with its signature feluccas). The famous Luxor Temple is in the background.

p.s.: The feluccas owners were trying to get on their boats for a ride back to the east bank (E£5/S$1.25 per person) but it really make no sense because the normal ferries were charging at E£1 per head (note that this is already the tourist fare!).
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